Malekula - The amazing, difficult, miracle filled, experience.

It’s hard to describe what we saw…. It started with a 16 seater flight from where we live, Effete island, Port Vila to Malekula Island. We arrived at an “airport”, (I use that term loosely) with a tiny blacktop runway and metal shack where you don’t even use a ticket. They literally weigh you and your stuff because the plane is so small. 

Malekula airport

Our objective was to go see a list of 9 sites in two days. Assess current buildings, as well as land for new ones and new missionary quarters. We saw women of all ages with machetes cutting the brush, grass, and trees back from off the road (in skirts), barefoot naked children playing in mud holes in the middle of the road. We drove through 3 rivers and the 4th was too deep so we had to turn around. They check the depth by walking into the river to see how high it goes on their body. Our driver stopped to pick up about 10 women and children on their way to a wedding, so they all got in the back of the truck on the bumpy, muddy road for an hour, then got out of the truck and walked the rest of the way to their festivities. 

Sites where branch members meet for church.

We had to get on a boat to go to another tiny island off Malekula where there is a branch of the church with about 80 people to see the “building”…. I seriously felt like I was in a movie scene of “The other side of Heaven”. I laughed and turned to Joe and said, “Are we really doing this”? There aren’t any accommodations there that a lot of the world would find suitable but there were no rodents, or cockroaches where we stayed so there’s that. We just closed our eyes and pretended we were camping. Think of living in a sauna for 4 days. It was pretty intense. 

President Leethem -District Pres of Malekula. He's 32.

"The other side of Heaven"

Our flight DID cancel, and was rebooked 2 days later.... 

We tried everything possible to get off the island somehow and it wasn’t happening. We decided that for some reason the Lord wanted us there longer… We prayed and said, Ok we are here, show us what you want us to do. We had NO idea. We had spent time looking at sites with the District President (head of 9 congregations of the church in Malekula, but too small to be a “Stake”) for the several days prior. He picked us up that morning and went to see the young missionaries, called “elders”. There are about 16 elders on this island and one of the sets had to move from their dwelling and was staying with church members. (Think, no air conditioning, no running water, dirt floor, sleep on a mat, little electricity, and your food is from the land… mango, coconut, bananas, and root vegetables, etc). By the way, sisters are not sent to live on this island for all the reasons stated above. 

Adorable ni-Van children pushing
our boat back from the shore.

These Elders needed a new place to live immediately. On Malekula island, it is extremely difficult to find any accommodations to rent with basic water, toilet, and maybe a shower. There is no hot water on the island at all unless you boil it. So again, we took it to the Lord and said, We need to find a place for these boys today. Please lead us to the right place. 

There is no “rental agency” or anything to check out. You basically drive around on dirt roads and call out to the people living there…We looked at 5 places. Four were just awful and one was very nice for Malekula standards. They wanted way too much money so I pulled out my sales skills (and a lot of prayer) and they agreed to our price and terms. We made the deal that day! 

When the Elder (who is an American) walked in with his tattered clothes and flip flops, he saw the kitchen sink with running water, a real shower and toilet, his eyes filled with tears… He said, “This is truly a miracle”. There is some mother’s prayer out there that was answered that day and I’m grateful we could be a part of it! 

This is the where they wash clothes for this village.

I’m pretty sure I cried when we landed back on the island of Effete and were headed to the city of Port Vila where we live. It was Thanksgiving Day, and as we grabbed some Chinese food at a food court on the way home from the airport, we both thought about all the things we are grateful for and all that had happened and how much God sees, loves, and is aware of everyone... no matter our beliefs, culture, or anything that is familiar to us.

Two days later on Saturday, we had a fun Thanksgiving feast, island style at the Howards home. They are the family who moved here from Placerville and he is the director of the Port Vila temple that is being built here. They invited all the Senior missionaries to their beautiful home on the ocean. It was a great time. 

What has struck me about the ni-Van people is that they are SO happy, loving, and accepting of everyone. No matter if we are in the middle of the bush or where we live in Port Vila, they are so willing to reach out, shake our hands and welcome us in every association. They want for nothing and are so satisfied with very little. Little kids throw a stick at a mango tree and the mangos fall and that is a meal. Simple. There is a lot to be said for the simplicity of life here. They are faithful people who love Jesus, love their families, and just want to do what is right.

May we all find the ni-Van spirit and strive to put first things first and be joyful and thankful for all we have.

We love and miss you.

The Kwans

A Malekula high counselor, and the District President.
Both really awesome faithful men.